Thaipusam at Batu Caves

Once a year for Thaipusam, Batu Caves is flooded with thousands of devotees, some have their body and toungues pierced with hooks and spears, carrying kavadis.


Thaipusam is a Hindu festival that is celebrated on the tenth month in the Hindu calendar. This festival combines the celebration of Lord Subramaniam, the youngest son of Hindu god Shiva and the union of Pusan and Brihaspati stars. This festival of faith and endurance is celebrated in Malaysia, Singapore, Mauritius, and South Africa. One of the biggest and most famous celebration is at Batu Caves, Malaysia.


Batu Caves is situated about seven miles north from the capital city, Kuala Lumpur. The caves are made of limestones and are filled with life-sized statues of Lord Subramaniam who is also known as Lord Muruga. About a month before Thaipusam, devotees start their fasting to cleanse them-selves.


The day before the festival, at the Mariamman Temple, devotees adorn the statue of Lord Subramaniam with precious stones and jewelry. Then the statue and the statues of his consorts, Valli and Theivanai are placed on a chariot that will be drawn by bullocks. The chariot itself is decorated with flags, gold and silver tinsel, streamers, flowers and statues of other deities and animals. The chariot is drawn then drawn from the temple in High Street to Batu Caves. Devotees who join the procession often chant vel-vel. Vel is a power lance that was given to Lord Subramaniam by his mother, Parvati on his birthday. Upon reaching the foot of the caves, the statue is lifted and carried up the 200 plus steps and placed in the temple inside the caves.


The next day, thousands upon thousands of devotees and tourists show up for the procession of the kavadi. Traditionally, a kavadi is a Tamil word that describes anything that can be suspended from a pole. Now it taken to mean a semi-circular structure that is decorated with flowers, peacock feathers and palm leaves. It usually bears a Vel, to represent Lord Subramaniam’s lance. A popular form of penance is to carry the kavadi. These kavadi bearers are first put into a trance before sharp skewers are thrust into their tongues through the cheeks. Then hooks and spears are pierced on parts their bodies. Sometimes strings are attached to the kavadi from the hooks. Offerings of fruit, milk and jaggery (syrup) are placed on each kavadi and the kavadi goes on the shoulder or head of the kavadi bearer.


These kavadi bearers dance around in a frenzied trance like state. During this procession, the devotees chant vel -vel or Arohara. Aro is the shortened version of the word arogam which means blissful, and Hara is another name for Lord Siva (father to Lord Subramaniam). So Arohara means blissful Siva. Some tourists who are unprepared may be shocked to see the hooks and spears that are pierced on theses bearers. Devotees say it is not the size of the kavadi that matters. Rather, it is the act itself and being able to carry the kavadi and offer it to Lord Subramaniam is what counts. The devotee must carry the kavadi up the steep steps, this after walking many miles is another amazing feat because there are 272 steps. Once in the caves, the kavadi is offered to Lord Subramaniam and the milk is poured out. This act of pouring out the milk is accompanied by the pouring out of love from the heart, thereby cleansing the devotee’s sins.